Which could give you a smiliar look to handcut/through dovetails. They can be any shape you want, including dovetail.
By addind in long grain splines you strength the joint significantly. The reason they do this is because endgrain to endgrain glueups are not particularly strong or have much surface area. Miter splines are simply a 45° miter joint with slots cut into the corners to accept spline reinforcements. What I was suggesting was lining both like that on a vertical cnc setup, and just using the cnc to cut both.Ībout your current project: You shouldn’t have to angle your end mill or tilt your piece if your including dog bones.If you’re already using 3D toolpaths, just switch to ball nose and cut the whole piece out at 90°. You then just flip the pieces over and fit them together. This is how they do it with hand held router jigs. Sorry for such a long explanation but I hope it helps.If you had a vertical setup, you could either do them separate with a flat end mill or with a dovetail bit you cut both the tails and pins at the same time by lining both pieces up perpendicular to each other. Cutting gauges do have a big advantage though because they can actually cut through things like veneer or thin stock lumber. Any wood that is relatively porous the blade will have a tendency to fall into the grain and follow it rather than the line you're trying to scribe. It does not work as well when using it with the grain. A cutting gauge can do a lot of the work of a marking gauge with a few limitations and some bonuses.
The blade is similar to the one found on nail clippers but they are sharp. A cutting gauge on the other hand has a blade set into the tool. Generally they are used for lying out joinery. They work well both cross grain and with the grain. So a marking gauge is generally a single point, something like a small nail tip or similar to a large quilting needle or leather needle. So I know it's been four months since your question but in the case you have not found an answer somewhere else I'll try to my best ability to explain. Start from the half pin marks walk them across the work leaving a light pin mark. Lets try again 10 x pins of 10mm = 100mm 330mm between half pins – Total pins 100mm = 220mm 220mm total tail divided by 11 (One more tail than pin) = 20mm Better, this would be OK for a drawer 6 x pins of 10mm = 60mm 330mm between half pins - Total pins 60mm = 270mm 270mm total tail divided by 7 (One more tail than pin) = 38mm Good, this would good on a chest Set dividers to 1 tail +1 pin. This joint would be really strong but it would take ages to prepare and would have machine cut proportions. 15 x pins of 10mm = 150mm 330mm between half pins -Total pins 150mm = 180mm 180mm total tails divided by 16 (One more tail than pin) = 11.25 AWFUL, the tail is so small.
Example: With experience we would know what we want to do but let’s experiment with this example I have a distance between half pins of 330mm and I have chosen a pin size of 10mm. Decide on your tail size remembering “One more tail than pin”. Your tails should be around 18mm > 35mm for fine work like drawers and 35mm > 55mm on larger work like a chest. To have a desirable appearance the pins smaller than the tails. Fine work the pins 4mm > 6mm, larger work 7mm > 12mm. The space between half pins is divided between pins and tails.
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